Forensic Fashion
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>Costume Studies
>>1858 Mexican charro
Subjectcharro gentleman equestrian
Culture: Mexican
Setting: Mexico 19th-early 20thc
Evolution1521 Spanish ginete > ... > 1858 Mexican charro














Context (Event Photos, Primary Sources, Secondary Sources, Field Notes)

* Slatta 1990 p43
"Class and race sharply divided society in New Spain and in independent Mexico.  An elite equestrian culture developed parallel to that of the lower-class vaquero.  The legacy of the Spanish gentleman rider was perpetuated by the charro.  The first charros were the Spanish elite who were rewarded with encomiendas, royal grants of Indian labor.  They became the landed elite of New Spain.  They retained jinetea, a short-stirrup riding style.  The Spanish adopted the style from the Moors, who originated it for cavalry warfare.  From the short stirrups, riders could stand high above an enemy and slash downward with sword or lance.  Richly dressed and well mounted, the caballeros (gentlemen) of New Spain would ride out and survey their estates and perhaps offer a few words of instruction to the ranch manager.  Their stylized riding evolved over time into the distinctively Mexican mounted exhibitions called the charrería.  But between these wealthy, landed riders and their vaquero hands stood a great social and economic gulf.
​   "The gentlemanly equestrian tradition remained after independence came to Mexico.  The great upheavals of the Mexican Revolution (1910-1920) put a new revolutionary elite in power in place of Porfírio Diaz and the clique that had ruled and profited with him since 1884.  This new elite resurrected and ritualized caballero dress and riding, just as the Argentine elite 'civilized' equestrian sport in Argentina.  In 1921 a Tamaulipas lawyer named Ramón Costo Gonzalez organized the National Association of Charros.  These exhibitions perpetuated the upper-class equestrian values of the past.  Charreadas of rodeo-style events exhibited the stylized riding and showmanship dear to the hearts of Mexico's rural middle and upper classes."

* History and traditions of Mexican charro culture online
"The term "charro" originally referred to a horseman or cowboy in Mexico, particularly those who participated in cattle ranching.  The word itself is believed to have originated from the Spanish term "charra," which relates to the act of riding horses.  In the early days, charros were essential for managing cattle on the expansive ranches, or "haciendas," that dotted the Mexican landscape.  Their skills in horsemanship were critical for the survival of the ranching economy and the livelihoods of many families.
    "During the colonial period, the charro began to take on a distinct cultural identity, characterized by a unique style of dress, specific riding techniques, and a code of conduct that emphasized honor and bravery.  The charros' lifestyle was often romanticized in literature and art, which contributed to their status as symbols of Mexican masculinity and pride.  By the 19th century, the charro had become a prominent figure in Mexican culture, celebrated in various forms of artistic expression, including music, dance, and visual arts.
    "....  The development of Charro culture cannot be fully understood without acknowledging the profound impact of both indigenous and Spanish cultures.  Indigenous peoples, such as the Nahua and Otomi, had their own rich traditions of horsemanship that predated the arrival of Spanish colonizers.  These groups had a deep connection to the land and their customs included equestrian practices that would later influence the charros’ techniques and riding styles.
    "When the Spanish arrived in the early 16th century, they brought with them their own equestrian traditions and cattle ranching practices.  The introduction of horses transformed indigenous ways of life, leading to the emergence of a new hybrid culture.  The charro tradition is a testament to this fusion, where the indigenous reverence for nature and animals intersected with the Spanish aristocratic values of horsemanship and cattle management.  This blend of cultures created a distinctive identity that is still celebrated today.
    "As the charro culture evolved, it absorbed various elements from different regions of Mexico.  Each area contributed its unique customs, clothing styles, and riding techniques, resulting in a rich tapestry of traditions that vary across the country.  For instance, the charros from Jalisco are particularly known for their mariachi music and vibrant costumes, while those from Veracruz may incorporate more Afro-Mexican influences into their performances."

* Clayton/Hoy/Underwood 2001 p45 (Jerald Underwood, "The vaquero" p1-65)
"​The basic difference between a vaquero and a charro is that the charro must have all the skills in riding and roping of the vaquero but also have fine clothes, excellent gear, and a fine horse.  Above all, according to ['Pepe'] Diaz's wife Rosa, 'He must be a gentleman.'"


Costume

​* Chávez 1993 p125
"El sombrero tradicional varía sólo por los adornos, como se apunta en los diferentes atuendos.  Esta prenda también tiene su historia con el uso de materiales diversos, desde la rústica palma hasta el lujoso fieltro.  Los usados en la charrería son de colores serios; algunos son verdaderas obras de arte por sus toquillas, sus chapetas de oro y plata, bordados o con galón ribeteado en el ala."

* Chávez 1993 p118
"[E]xisten cinco modelos distintos de trajes charros.  La elección de cada uno depende de la finalidad con que se utilice; esto significa que su uso es relativo a lo que la circunstancia o situación exige.
    "Como ya se dijo anteriormente, la charrería es un espectáculo tradicional mexicano que se exhibe ante públicos tantos nacionales como extranjeros.  Por ello, y por ser además un deporte, está regido por un reglamento.  El uso de los distintos trajes y las características. propias de cada uno también están contemplados dentro de sus reglas, las cuales los definen como a continuación se expone."

* History and traditions of Mexican charro culture online
"The charro suit, or "traje de charro," is perhaps the most iconic symbol of charro culture.  It is a meticulously designed outfit that combines functionality with aesthetic appeal, reflecting the wearer's social status, regional identity, and personal style.  The suit typically consists of several components, including a fitted jacket, trousers, a wide-brimmed hat, and boots.
    "Charro suits are predominantly made from high-quality wool or cotton, featuring intricate embroidery and embellishments that highlight the craftsmanship involved in their creation.  The colors and designs can vary significantly, with some suits adorned with silver or gold thread, while others may showcase vibrant patterns inspired by indigenous art.  The choice of color often has specific meanings, with certain hues representing regional affiliations or personal significance.
    "One of the standout features of the charro suit is the "chaqueta," the fitted jacket that can be either short or long.  Short jackets, known as "chaquetas cortas," are popular among younger charros, while older generations may prefer the traditional long jacket, or "chaqueta larga."  The trousers, known as "pantalones," are typically high-waisted and fitted, often embellished with decorative elements that echo the jacket's design.
    "The wide-brimmed hat, or "sombrero," is an essential part of the outfit, not only serving as protection from the sun but also as a symbol of pride. These hats can vary in size and style, with some featuring elaborate decorations such as silver conchos or colorful ribbons.  The hat's shape and size can signify the wearer’s social status, with larger hats often associated with higher prestige.
    "Overall, the charro suit is more than just clothing; it is a representation of the wearer's identity, history, and connection to Mexican culture.
    "Essential Charro Accessories  In addition to the suit itself, various accessories play a crucial role in completing the charro ensemble.  Each accessory carries its significance and adds to the overall aesthetic of the charro look.
        * Rebozo: A traditional shawl often worn draped over the shoulders or wrapped around the waist, the rebozo is not only a fashionable             accessory but also serves a practical purpose, providing warmth and comfort.
        * Botas de Charro: Charro boots are distinctive, typically made from high-quality leather and featuring intricate stitching. They often have a             pointed toe and a slight heel, which is essential for riding.
        * Faja: The "faja," or sash, is a colorful belt worn around the waist. It symbolizes the charro's status and is often embroidered with patterns that             reflect regional styles.
        * Espuelas: Spurs are an important accessory, serving both functional and decorative purposes. Charros take great pride in their spurs, often             choosing those that reflect their personal style and craftsmanship.
    "​These accessories not only enhance the visual appeal of the charro attire but also contribute to the overall functionality of the outfit, allowing charros to perform their skills effectively during events and competitions."

* Verti 1993 p359
"La asociatión entre el traje de charro y el mariachi parece haber comenzado en el año de 1901, cuando el compositor y pianista Miguel Lerdo de Tejada vistió de charros a los músicos de su orquesta típica a fin de darles una imagen más mexicana.  Sin embargo, no fue sino hasta principios de los años treinto cuando los grupos procedentes de jalisco comenzaron a uniformarse."


Sword

* Chávez 1993 p141
​"El machete.  Es un arma más corta que la espada, de hoja ancha, pesada, gruesa y con filo.  El charro se sirve de él para abrirse camino por los breñales."


Crop

* Chávez 1993 p133
​"La cuarta.  Es un azote que se compone de: maniota, de unos diecinueve centímetros de largo; tiro, de veintitrés centImetros, y pajuela, de cuarenta y seis centímetros, poco mas o menos."


Knife

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