Forensic Fashion
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>Costume Studies
>>East Coast hip hop
Subject: hip hop gangsta
Culture: urban black American
Setting: East Coast America 1990s and after





Context (Event Photos, Primary Sources, Secondary Sources, Field Notes)

​* Krishnamurthy 2023 p186-188
"Hip-hop had a complex history with masculinity.  As a genre driven by Black men, its heteronormative and cisgender standards have been framed within the context of patriarchy and hegemony.  Masculinity meant physical strength, success, style, and sexual charisma.  The idea of toxic masculinity, marked by aggression, violence, and homophobia, was encouraged.  Misogyny was often parsed into the idea that women were 'bitches and hoes' and was reflected throughout the genre's discography -- including by female rappers.  Teh commercialization of hip-hop added another layer as record labels, media, and brands prioritized certain avatars of Black masculinity.  As Dr. Crystal Belle explained in 'From Jay-Z to Dead Prez: Examining Representations of Black Masculinity in Mainstream Versus Underground Hip-Hop Music': There is a merging of intellectualism and the cliched 'thug' ... the stereotypical representations ... that Black men are too aggressive, violent and angry.  Rappers often exploit this stereotype, playing into the gaze of the white mainstream imagination in order to make profit.'"
    [....]  As drug dealers became the driving force of masculinity in hip-hop throughout the 1980 and '90s, rappers took on their streetwise mentality and persona.  'What separate hip-hop in that regard is its relationship to drug dealer culture,' said Touré, and pointed to rappers invoking the menacing visage of the 'drug dealer screw face' in photos and music videos.  'Drug dealers have talked to me about this sort of ethos of you would never do anything that would allow somebody to think that they might be able to test you.  This leads you to a sort of hyper-masculinity.'  The paradigm changed to being rough and rugged.  Someone in the streets -- or inspired by a life of criminality -- had the mentality of survival and not fun."

Costume

* Piazza 2017 p41
"The East Coast version of the same genre [West Coast gangsta hip hop] witnessed a development of styles with Mafia overtones, which was greatly influenced by the 1983 movie Scarface.  Clothing included pinstripe double-breasted suits, two-tone or crocodile shoes, and a walking stick with a carved silver knob.  The style was inspired by the gangsters of the Prohibition era, and the vintage chic version is what hip hop mogul Sean Combs has dubbed 'ghetto fabulous' fashion."

* Natapoff 2009 p
"​

Jewelry

* Netshiheni 2013-02-08 online
"It’s regarded as one of the most iconic pieces of Hip Hop jewellery in the world and has since been a symbol of religion/spirituality for those involved in a world of cruelty and 'gangster' lifestyles. Now the reason why most headz recognize the iconic Jesus Piece so well may be that it has been seen around the necks of your favourite stars. However only a few actually know about the origins and history of it but, through looking down a simple timeline, you will realise that this Holy Bling has been around longer than you thought."

​* Barnett online
"Designed by Tito the Jeweler, Biggie's massive Jesus piece was the last chain he ever wore. It would turn into a good luck charm of sorts, worn by both Jay-Z and Lil Kim during the creation of their iconic albums of that era. Since his passing, the Jesus piece has arguably become the most popular pendant of all time."