Forensic Fashion
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>Costume Studies
>>1914 Koli thakur
Subjectthakur chieftain
Culture: Koli
Setting: British empire, Hindustan mid 19th - early 20thc
Evolution













Context (Event Photos, Primary Sources,Secondary Sources, Field Notes)

* Vyas 1988 p271
"The tribes living in the hilly areas of [the] eastern border of Gujarat are spread in comparatively a larger part of the state. Koli is among those communities who live a semi-tribal life.
      "The Kolis living in parts of Gujarat-Saurashtra are divided into five sub-castes, such as (i) Talpada, (ii) Chumvalia, (iii) Ghedia, (iv) Valankia and (v) Khant. The number of other minor sub castes is very big.


Costume

* Vyas 1988 p271-272
"Kolis are robust built, medium in looks and black in complexion. The Kolis of Saurashtra wear ratched [sic] breeches and in Gujarat they wear short dhoti, similar shirt, a coaty [sic] a simple turban. The buttons are made of silver chain with tiny bells. They also wear a black thread and an ominous pandel [sic] in neck."
      "Some of the Kolis from South Gujarat call themselves 'Patels' and others introduce themselves as 'Thakors'. According to a reference, the mariners living in the coastal area are basically from [the] Koli community. Bhils of Aravalli hills live with the [K]olis. The people of this community residing in the ravines of rivers and desert areas have more or less merged with other communities.
      "Agriculture is one of the main occupations of the Kolis. Some of them work as labourers on daily wages. Their surnames are similar to those of Rajputs. Many Kolis are involved in criminal activities too. Kolis were known for theft, robbery and stealing of crops. They are idle and extravagant by nature. They are frequently lured by easy money instead of hard work or labour.
      "That is why most Kolis resorted to criminal acts. They created a sense of terror in north Gujarat once upon a time."