Forensic Fashion
(c) 2006-present R. Macaraeg

Email:
ruel@
ForensicFashion.com

>Costume Studies
>>1743 Madurese mantri
Subjectmantri nobleman
Culture: Madurese
Setting: Madura/north Java 18thc
Evolution1275 Singhasari warrior > 1342 Majapahit bhayankari > ... > 1743 Madurese mantri














Context (Event Photos, Period Sources, Secondary Sources, Field Notes)

* Ricklefs 1993 p
"

* Draeger 1972 p
"

​* A passion for Indonesian art 1996 p48
"[M]any Madurese mercenaries were virtually in permanent service of the Susuhunan of Surakarta."




Dagger

* Frey 1988 p46
"Krises from the island of Madura are frequently fitted with ivory hilts carved in intricate floral patterns.  The mode, called gaya kembang (flower style) is unique in that these hilts are further adaptations of the severely stylized Javanese hilt.  This seems to be a reversal of the typical stylizing sequence, because here a new style has emerged which is equivalent in originality and detail to the old form. The handsome Madura hilts most often show overall floral carving -- tendrils, leaves and blossoms filling every space.  Others are done with an eye to geometry and show orderly design elements of chevrons, spaced leafy sprays, knobby grids, and sometimes, a Chinese key border.  Occasionally a strangely abstracted face, barely discernible, can be made out in the details of the carving.
    "It is difficult to separate some Madura figural hilts from similar Java hilts.  Generally, ivory Madura hilts are bent over more; the themes are usually abstracted demi-god figures, sometimes animals, rather than subjects from mythology.  The Madura ivory carving is better executed.  European motifs are often found.  The hilt may be capped with a Greek helmet, it may display a panoply of pole-arms, epaulets may be discerned at its 'shoulders'.  A crown or winged horse displayed frontally is frequent.  They are said to be symbols of the royal house but one should not so assume if the carving is of ordinary or inferior quality."

* Aspects of Indonesian culture 1979 p62
"The kris is a magical weapon surrounded by ceremonies and legends.  Even nowadays when cleaned once a year it is drawn with prayers, treated with oil, perfume and incense and stored in silk.  It is supposed to have a power of its own, as for example the evil kris Kyai Gondong which stole off at night to search out a victim and drink its blood.  The Madurese increased the power of the kris by bathing it in the bowels and brains of scorpions and snakes."


Sickle

* Draeger 1972 p76
"The arit, or sickle weapon, has many variations on Madura.  The tjelurit; the bulu ajam (chicken feather); the arit lanchar (fluent); and the arit biasa (common) are some of the most well-known types in use.  They are all generally longer and more curved in blade design than the arit of Java.  Sickle tactics employ both the single blade or two, one held in each hand.  By a continuous series of circular criss-cross patterns of swinging, this vicious blade is difficult to defend against; combined with the pisau few venture to combat against it.  The deadly arit can be swung over the shoulder, under the armpit, or between the legs to catch a rear-closing enemy off guard."

* Ensiklopedi busaya nasional p59
"CELURIT, atau clurit adalah senjata tajam yang berasal dari daerah Madura, yang kemudian tersebar juga di daerah Jawa Timur bagian timur dan pulau-pulau di sekitar pulau Madura.  Senjata ini bentuknya menyerupai arit atau sabut, tetapi pada bagian lengkung di ujung lebih panjang dan lebih runcing.  Celurit pada mulanya dibuat sebagai alat serba guna untuk petani.  Tetapi dalam perkembangannya kemudian celurit juga digunakan sebagai senjata dan bahkan menjadi pusaka keluarga yang turun-temurun.
    "Sebagian besar celurit terbuat dari bahan besi dan baja saja, tetapi ada pula yang dibuat dengan mencampurkan bahan pamor.  Celurit kemudian digolongkan pula pada jenis tosan aji.  Bahkan ada pula yang diberi hiasan pahatan berukir, terutama di bagian pangkal dan di bagian karahnya.
    "Hingga sekarang di pulau Madura masih berkembang beberapa jurus untuk dimainkan dengan celurit.  Senjata ini tidak mengenal jenis warangka (sarung) penutup yang khusus.  Pada umumnya celurit disimpan dalam keadaan 'telanjang' saja."

* Steel and magic 2020 p93
"Sickles in different sizes were originally used - primarily on Java, Madura, and Sumatra - as improvised weapons, but were then later integrated as a weapon category of their own into Malay martial arts, similar to the sickle-shaped weapons of Okinawa and China. The longer ones ... are usually found on Madura, and if attached to a pole are labeled arit lancar."

* National cultural encyclopaedia p59
"CELURIT, or clurit is a kind of pointed weapons [SIC] from Madura, it is also known in East Java and some islands around Madura.  Its model is similar to arit or sabit, but the curved part at the point is longer.  In the first time, this weapon was used by farmers as a multiple purposes [SIC], but in its development it is used as a weapon and pusaka (a heirloom [SIC]).
    "Most clurit are made of iron, steel, but some of them are made by combining with pamor.  Clurit is classified into tosan aji.  Even, some are decorated, especially in the lower part and karah part.
    "Upto now, in Madura there are some schools of pencak silat which use clurit.  This model does not have a special warangka.  Generally it is lay away in 'bare'." [SIC]

* van Zonneveld 2001 p
"


Costume

*
​"