Forensic Fashion
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>Costume Studies
>>1702 Edo samurai
>>>costume
Subject: 侍 samurai warrior
Culture: Japanese
Setting: Edo period, Japan 17th-mid 19thc
Object: 上下 kamishimo costume = 着物 kimono robe, dofuku jacket, 浴衣 yukata bathrobe, kataginu vest, obi sash, 袴 hakama trousers


​Kimbell Art Museum > Passport to Asia *
"Kamishimo  Japan, Edo period (1603-1868)  Silk
  The mon is the only motif immediately recognizable on this kamishimo.
  Originally worn by the shogun, it was reserved for use by the samurai.
  This two-piece vestment created a distinctive silhouette due to the rigidity of the tissue,
 a pleated ramie used to construct the upper portion (kateginu) and the pantaloons (hakama).
  The actual decoration of this kamishimo consists of thousands of white spots,
 which suggest a hail storm, a metaphor for the power of the warrior."
* MenCos
event photos



* Harwood International > Marie
"Dofuku (jacket)  Japanese, Edo period, 17th century  Doeskin  
Samurai warriors dominated Japan for nearly a millennium, playing an important role in the course of the country's history.  From their initial role as defenders of provincial landsthe samurai evolved to become the cultured elite of Japanese society.
    "This leather jacket, known as a dofuku, is made of doeskin that has been smoked to create the tan color.  The areas that appear white were covered with a special paste, shielding the leather beneath from the smoking process and maintaining the colorless appearance.  A coat like this would have been worn by a samurai during his travels -- possibly to and from the capital city of Edo, present day Tokyo.
    "The mon, family crest, of two crossed feathers may have been that of the Asano family.  The Asano were a prominent samurai family, descendants of the legendary Minamoto clan, who were central in the historical event of the Forty-Seven Ronin in 1703." ...
​*
event photos <

* Kimbell Art Museum > Passport to Asia
"Hitatare and matching hakama  Japan, Edo period (1603-1868)  Silk
The hitatare is composed of a vest tucked into pantaloons (hakama).  It was originally worn under the armor but was later adopted by samurai for civil use.  The decoration consists of rows of chrysanthemums that alternate with white medallions against a background of clouds.  The palette of green, white, and violet against beige is also used in the silk cording, which adds an additional note of color."